Usually, the Christmas season starts off with me hustling other passengers to get a place on the bus and bumpy (sometimes dangerous) journey up-country to join those family members who make it to spend time in our shags or rural home. We clear out the dust that has gathered in our rooms during our time looking for money in the city and settle down for a few fuss-free days of relaxation, reconnecting and nyama and kuku choma, all centred around the 25th of December.
So you can imagine my surprise at how seriously Germans take their Christmas traditions. Christmas season starts in earnest a month early. The decorations start coming up, lots of colour, red and gold and green everywhere you look. The mood among the people changes, they become festive, eager, joyful and light-hearted, like children.
Four Sundays before Christmas, an advent wreath is laid out. It is made out of fir or pine branches. Four candles are placed in the centre, and one is lit every Sunday. The last is lit on Christmas Eve, which is the most important time of this season. In addition, there is an advent calendar with little flaps which are opened by children everyday to reveal the Christmas picture underneath, as they count down the days to Christmas. A decorated Christmas tree is part and parcel of this tradition, as are gifts, which are also opened on Christmas Eve evening.
When I thought of the number of Germans I’d met who regarded religious devotion and Christianity with derision, scorn or skepticism, I commented to my colleague, “For people who don’t believe in God, I’m surprised at how much goes into celebrating the birth of his son Jesus Christ!”
My colleague offered another perspective: Even those who do not believe in God have a reason to celebrate, as they finally get to spend time with their loved ones and give them gifts to illustrate their love. As for the cost, what does it matter if they buy expensive gifts? If they were often away because of work, then at least, the end justifies the means.
True. I guess that is what we do as well, toil through the year and spend time with the family at Christmas time.
So in summary, my views this Christmas:
The good: Regular visits to the Christmas Market (Weihnachtsmarkt) to drink hot spiced wine, called Glühwein look at the variety of handicrafts and sample the sweet treats to be found there; and the prospect of spending Christmas Eve with newly found friends from all over the world and knowing that we’ll have a fabulous time.
The bad: Knowing that this year, I’ll be far away from the people with whom I have always spent this time, family and friends back home.
The ugly: Observing and wondering if this frantic consumer culture is really necessary, and being reminded about the economic disparity between developed and developing countries.
